96-Point Brunello Magic
In James Suckling’s 2012 “rockstar vintage” for Brunello di Montalcino, few wines thrilled the critics like the 2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. This was Decanter’s equal highest scoring Brunello of the year, earning 96 points. This prestigious Brunello is a remarkable value when you consider it outpointed far more expensive peers such as Poggio di Sotto (94 points, $200), Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie (95, $186) and Salvioni Cerbaiola (95, $161). James Suckling and Wine Enthusiast both rated the 2012 Fuligni 95 points, the latter publication blessing it with “Cellar Selection” status. If the acclaim is making you yearn for a bottle, you’re in luck.
Our very own Matt Deller, MW, used to import Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino to New Zealand. He says, "Even though communication with Maria and Roberto Fuligni was always limited to mostly smiles and hand gestures, the wine always transcended the language barriers because it is one of the great properties of Brunello and always been an incredible value."
Fuligni’s 247-acre property offers plenty for the history buff; the tasting rooms housed a cluster of monks in the 16th century. Perhaps its most impressive story is the size of its vineyards — or lack thereof. While other Montalcino estates seemingly try to stretch their vines to infinity, Maria Flora Fuligni’s vineyards occupy a tidy 25 acres of Cottimelli hillsides, where they’re ensconced in rocky marl some 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level.
The challenging terrain yields teensy amounts of Sangiovese — roughly 110 to 120 pounds per year. Just enough fruit to provide the age-worthy 2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG the character that made it such a critical darling. Suckling applauded its “delicious, solid, and harmonious” in his review, while Wine Enthusiast praised it for being “bright and elegant.” The acclaim alone will make these bottles fly off the shelf, so what are you waiting for?