Decanter’s 96-Point Brunello Cellar Selection
In James Suckling’s 2012 “rockstar vintage” for Brunello, few wines thrilled the critics like the 2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Not only is it Decanter’s equal highest scoring Brunello of the year, with 96 points, it’s also a remarkable value when you consider it outpointed far more expensive peers such as Poggio di Sotto (94 points, $200), Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie (95, $186) and Salvioni Cerbaiola (95, $161). Our first allocation offered last fall, sold out in hours. We asked for more. 56 new cases have arrived stateside, on this most obvious Brunello cellar selection.
I used to import Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino to New Zealand. Even though communication with Maria and Roberto Fuligni was always limited to mostly smiles and hand gestures, the wine always transcended the language barriers because it is one of the great properties of Brunello and always been an incredible value.
Fuligni’s 247-acre property offers plenty for the history buff; the tasting rooms housed a cluster of monks in the 16th century. Perhaps its most impressive story is the size of its vineyards — or lack thereof. While other Montalcino estates seemingly try to stretch their vines to infinity, Maria Flora Fuligni’s vineyards occupy a tidy 25 acres of Cottimelli hillsides, where they’re ensconced in rocky marl some 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level.
The challenging terrain yields teensy amounts of Sangiovese — roughly 110 to 120 pounds per year. Just enough fruit to provide the age-worthy 2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG the character that made it such a critical darling. Suckling applauded its “delicious, solid, and harmonious” in his review, while Wine Enthusiast praised it for being “bright and elegant.”
Matt Deller MW
Master of Wine
Chief Wine Officer, Wine Access